Category Archives: cats

Help your pet cope

How to help your pets cope with fireworks

fireworks dog

 

 

  • Every year we receive a number of requests for help from owners who are worried about how their pets react to fireworks. Both cats and dogs can suffer from noise related phobias around this time and it is important to plan in advance if you want to tackle this problem.

 

 

  • After the fireworks begin, your pet may begin to show odd behaviour such as restlessness, making excessive noise or hiding away in a corner. If you have noticed any of these signs in the past, there are a few things that you could do to reduce their stress this year.

 

 

  • Keep all of your pets inside during firework displays. Ensure that any windows or cat flaps are shut and that the curtains are drawn.

 

 

  • Take your dog for a walk before the fireworks begin so that they are not startled whilst they are outside

 

 

  •  It is important for you to remain in the house with your pet during any firework displays, but try not to act any differently towards them. If you act normally, your pet will feel calmer.

 

 

  •  If your pet prefers to hide somewhere in the house, just let them hide and they will come out when they feel safer.

 

 

  •  Try offering your pet a distraction. Treats or a toy can help them to feel more relaxed, but do not try and force them to play.

 

 

  •  Do not punish your pet for their behaviour during firework night, as this can lead to worsening anxiety.

 

 

  • It is important to stress again that if your pet prefers to hide, do not try to force them to sit with you. If you have enough time, try creating a safe place for them to hide in before the fireworks begin. You could use your dog’s crate or bed if they have one, or if you have a cat, a large cardboard box will do. Try and line them with blankets or towels that your pet is used to sleeping on, as these will smell comforting. Do not force your animal into the safe place, as again this can make them feel uneasy.

 

 

  • Ensure that each pet has a separate hiding place and that cats have an opportunity to hide away from each other. Note that some cats actually prefer hiding somewhere high up, like on top of a wardrobe. Never shut your animal in a cage, or inside one room, as they will feel trapped.

 

 

  • There are also some supplements that you could try to help keep your pet calm.

 

 

  •  For dogs – ADAPTIL is a product that contains Dog Appeasing pheromone. It is a copy of a pheromone that a bitch releases to comfort her puppies and should help to reassure and calm your dog. It comes as a plug –in, a spray or a collar. Adaptil should be started 2 weeks before firework season for maximal effect.

 

 

  •  For cats – FELIWAY is a product that contains facial pheromones. These are pheromones that your cat will leave on an object when they rub their head against it, and will make them feel safe and secure. This comes as a plug-in or a spray. Feliway should be started 2 weeks before firework season for maximal effect.

 

 

  •  For both dogs and cats – ZYLKENE is a supplement derived from milk proteins that can help to make your pet feel more relaxed. These supplements should be started at least 1-2 days before any fireworks are expected.

 

  • If your dog is very anxious we do on occasion dispense tranquilizers, but we would advise that the above methods are tried if possible also.

 

  • It is possible to try to desensitize your pets to firework noises using a download available from itunes called ‘Sounds Scary’ although this may take some weeks to have  an effect.

 

 

Young Veterinary Partnership

www.youngvets.co.uk

Avoiding pet poisons

poisons

 

There are many potential household and garden toxins or poisons that may harm cats and dogs.  We give you some tips on what to avoid, and what to do if your pet has been affected.

 

 

  • We are proud to offer a 24 hour emergency service at Young Veterinary Partnership.  Unfortunately some clients have to use our emergency service when their pet is poisoned.  Whilst this is a situation we hope you won’t have to go through with your precious pet, poisons that are harmful to pets are commonly found in everyday household substances and products. We hope this newsletter will help you to understand some of the common poisons and explain what you should do in an emergency to minimise the risk to your pet.

 

 

  • There are a few keys things we may ask over the phone which help us to assess the immediate situation.
  • When do you think the toxin was ingested/in contact with your pet? Some specific toxins may have an anti-toxin which we can administer.
  • What was it? Bring any packaging with you if you can.
  • Make a note of any clinical signs such as vomiting, diarrhoea, shaking, seizures, drooling, altered mentation (behaving strangely), burns/ulcers in the mouth, pain, increased thirst, heavy breathing or difficulty breathing.

 

 

  • Poisonous foods include:

Raisins, Grapes, Onions, Chocolate, Alcohol, Leeks, Garlic.

 

  • Poisonous Plants include:

Lillies, Rhododendron , Azalea, Marijuana, Pointsetta, Yew, Deadly nightshade, Holly, Ivy, Mistletoe.

 

  • Other Poisons:

Rat poison, Paracetamol/Ibuprofen (paracetamol is often IMMEDIATELY FATAL to cats), Chewing gum (zylitol), Anti-freeze (ethylene glycol), Permethrin (poisonous in cats and in high quantities in dogs – often found in supermarket anti-flea products), Weed killers / herbicides (Paraquat/doquat), Blue-green Algae, Batteries, Lead, Insecticides (Organophosphates), Slug bait (Metaldehyde), Psoriasis creams (Vitamin D analogues), Bleach, Strong detergents.

 

  • What we can do:

If the toxin was ingested up to 2-3hrs ago we may administer a small injection which will make your pet vomit. This can stop any further toxin being absorbed into the stomach and intestines, but is not suitable for all toxins. After this we may try to feed your pet some adsorbents such as activated charcoal.  Adsorbents bind to any toxin left in the stomach and prevent any further digestion. If the toxin was on your pet’s skin we may instruct you to wash your pet with some warm mild shampoo.

 

  • Depending on how much toxin your pet has ingested we may do blood tests and keep your pet with us overnight on a drip. This helps to support the vital organs whilst the toxin is being broken down. We may also need to monitor your pet intensively for a few days whilst the toxin clears.

 

  • We hope this dispels some of the myths around poisons and explains how we can help.  We have extensive experience in dealing with cases of poison and we are here 24 hours a day to care for your pet.

How to stop cats and kittens scratching furniture

 

 

People often think that when a cat scratches furniture it is doing so to sharpen its claws. In actual fact they are scenting the furniture using scent glands in their pads, as well as leaving a visual mark that they have been there. This is a normal cat behaviour, and would usually be done on trees in an outdoor situation. When they are kept indoors they tend to go through the same process, but unfortunately they may pick your best furniture to do so !

 

It is always easier to teach good habits when they are young, so we suggest starting teaching them good habits as early as possible. If your older cat already has a problem then we have a few tips to try to help improve the situation.

 

How to stop kittens scratching furniture

 

  • Place a few scratching posts in the areas of the house that they use most, particularly in areas they like to sleep and play.

 

  • Encourage them to use the scratching post by using dangle toys near the post or using catnip to scent the post. You can also use praise and cat treats when they use the scratching post.

 

  • Don’t force them to use the post as this may have the opposite effect.

 

How to stop cats with a habit of scratching furniture

 

  • Put a scratching post next to, or in front of the damaged furniture. Make sure it is of  a texture that the cat likes- some prefer loose weaved material, some prefer knobbly textures.

 

  • Cover  or move the damaged furniture, so the cat can’t get to it.  If covering you could use thick plastic, or another material that your cat won’t like the feel of, such as double sided sticky tape.

 

  • Make sure that scratching posts are in prominent areas that the cat likes to be in.

 

  • Feliway is a cat pheromone (scent) spray  that may help reduce scratching particularly in multi-cat households where stress may be a factor. You can purchase this from the surgery, and spray it onto the furniture daily for a month.

 

 

TB in cats

You may have seen the recent articles about TB (tuberculosis) in cats, and people.This is a very rare occurrence, and the recent reports relate to an outbreak last year  in 9 cats in Newbury, Berkshire. The symptoms in the cats were varied, but included weeping infected wounds, pneumonia, loss of appetite and enlarged lymph glands. It is thought that the cats became infected from wildlife carrying the disease.  TB is spread by a bacteria (Mycobacterium bovis), which mainly affects cattle and badgers, which is why all milk is now pasteurised to remove the possibility of picking up TB from cow’s milk.  It appears that in this outbreak people became infected from their cats which makes it a zoonotic disease  (a zoonosis is a disease passed from an animal to a person), which is very unusual.

The risk of your cat being infected by TB is extremely low, but if your cat has non healing wounds, skin nodules or  has lost their appetite, you should make an appointment with the vet.

Click here for a BBC article about the outbreak.

Kitten care- first steps

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kitten vets

 

Once you have decided on a kitten and are ready to take it home, there are some essential items that need to be prepared first:

Food: A good brand of kitten food (biscuits or pouches) should be fed and we personally recommend the Science Plan food. Kittens must have access to fresh water at all times. Kittens who have been weaned do not require milk (even though they may really like it!). Cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and should be avoided.

Food and water bowls: Bowls should be cleaned daily.

Litter: The cat litter should be non-clumping and non-toxic as kittens have a tendency to chew and occasionally try to eat the litter.

Litter tray: Trays can either be open or covered, but should be placed in the room where the kitten will spend most of its time. Scoop out soiled litter daily and completely clean litter trays regularly. If you have more than one cat ideally there should be at least one litter tray per cat.

Bed/ blanket: These are not essential but most cats prefer a comfortable place to sleep that they can call their own.

Toys: Toys are very important to keep your kitten entertained. Avoid toys that are easily broken as these can cause a choking hazard. To avoid accidents, supervise your kitten during any play.

Scratching post: Cats and kittens need to scratch and scratching posts can be an ideal way of preventing the furniture from being used.

Cat carrier: This is essential for safely transporting your kitten. End opening plastic carriers, or top opening wire carriers are suitable.

 

Preparing the area

 

 

One room should be designated for the kitten to spend its first few days. This room should be large enough to include all of the above. It may be helpful to bring something with the scent of the previous owner on it, such as a blanket or toy. This familiar smell can help the kitten relax.

Feliway is a product that can help settle your kitten into a new environment. It can be purchased from the surgery as a spray or plug in diffuser which has replicated pheromones (cat scent) that cats would leave naturally, and is used to calm and comfort cats during stressful times. All cats think it is their own scent, so it can also help if you already have another cat in your house.

Before the arrival of a new kitten, every home should be checked for potential hazards. Kittens are very curious and will explore their new environment by jumping, climbing and sometimes chewing! We recommend checking the following hazards:

 

 

 

  • Oven Hobs (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Washing machines and tumble dryers (check kitten has not climbed in before turning on)
  • Irons (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Electric wires (kittens may chew)
  • Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
  • Sewing materials (kittens love to play with string, but if eaten it will cause a serious problem)
  • Any small objects like pins, etc (may cause a problem if eaten)

 

 

 

Many everyday items found in the home can be potentially toxic to kittens and cats, and need to be avoided. Examples of  toxins include:

 

 

 

  • Pesticides and weed-killers
  • Rat-bait and slug poison
  • Antifreeze
  • Paint
  • Certain plants – Holly, Lillies, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Poinsettia, Ivy and Sweet Pea
  • Paracetemol and other human medications
  • Tea-tree oil
  • Flea spot-on products for Dogs that contain Permethrin

 

 

 

If your kitten has eaten or come into contact with any of the above products, please contact us immediately.

 

 

Finally once your kitten is settled into your home, sit back and enjoy the show -they’ll be climbing the curtains in no time, and post your cute pictures on our facebook page here  !

Taking your kitten home – Part 2

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What to do once your new kitten is home

kitten vets

Once you have decided on a kitten and are ready to take it home, there are some essential items that need to be prepared first:

Food: A good brand of kitten food (biscuits or pouches) should be fed and we personally recommend the Science Plan food. Kittens must have access to fresh water at all times. Kittens who have been weaned do not require milk (even though they may really like it!). Cow’s milk can cause diarrhoea and should be avoided.

Food and water bowls: Bowls should be cleaned daily.

Litter: The cat litter should be non-clumping and non-toxic as kittens have a tendency to chew and occasionally try to eat the litter.

Litter tray: Trays can either be open or covered, but should be placed in the room where the kitten will spend most of its time. Scoop out soiled litter daily and completely clean litter trays regularly. If you have more than one cat ideally there should be at least one litter tray per cat.

Bed/ blanket: These are not essential but most cats prefer a comfortable place to sleep that they can call their own.

Toys: Toys are very important to keep your kitten entertained. Avoid toys that are easily broken as these can cause a choking hazard. To avoid accidents, supervise your kitten during any play.

Scratching post: Cats and kittens need to scratch and scratching posts can be an ideal way of preventing the furniture from being used.

Cat carrier: This is essential for safely transporting your kitten. End opening plastic carriers, or top opening wire carriers are suitable.

 

Preparing the area

One room should be designated for the kitten to spend its first few days. This room should be large enough to include all of the above. It may be helpful to bring something with the scent of the previous owner on it, such as a blanket or toy. This familiar smell can help the kitten relax.

Feliway is a product that can help settle your kitten into a new environment. It can be purchased from the surgery as a spray or plug in diffuser which has replicated pheromones (cat scent) that cats would leave naturally, and is used to calm and comfort cats during stressful times. All cats think it is their own scent, so it can also help if you already have another cat in your house.

Before the arrival of a new kitten, every home should be checked for potential hazards. Kittens are very curious and will explore their new environment by jumping, climbing and sometimes chewing! We recommend checking the following hazards:

 

  • Oven Hobs (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Washing machines and tumble dryers (check kitten has not climbed in before turning on)
  • Irons (kittens may jump up and burn themselves)
  • Electric wires (kittens may chew)
  • Dustbins and toilets (always keep the lid on and the toilet seat down)
  • Sewing materials (kittens love to play with string, but if eaten it will cause a serious problem)
  • Any small objects like pins, etc (may cause a problem if eaten)

 

Many everyday items found in the home can be potentially toxic to kittens and cats, and need to be avoided. Examples of  toxins include:

 

  • Pesticides and weed-killers
  • Rat-bait and slug poison
  • Antifreeze
  • Paint
  • Certain plants – Holly, Lillies, Mistletoe, Wisteria, Rhododendron, Poinsettia, Ivy and Sweet Pea
  • Paracetemol and other human medications
  • Tea-tree oil
  • Flea spot-on products for Dogs that contain Permethrin

 

If your kitten has eaten or come into contact with any of the above products, please contact us immediately.

Finally once your kitten is settled into your home, sit back and enjoy the show -they’ll be climbing the curtains in no time !

 

 

 

 

 

Loud bangs, fireworks and other scary noises

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Fireworks are a particular problem for many dogs, and can cause severe anxiety in some. Here are a few ideas that may help in dogs that are scared of loud noises.

 

  • Give your dog a safe area to go to such as a crate or cupboard under the stairs, and provide plenty of bedding to allow him to burrow in.
  • Leaving a loud radio or turn the television up  can help also, or play classical music.
  • Use dog pheromones – a spray , plug in diffuser or collar are available which emit a scent that reassures and calms the dog. This is called DAP (dog appeasing pheromone) and can be purchased at the veterinary surgery. The plug in diffuser should be placed near the safe area.  Your dog can also wear a DAP collar, so that the calming scent accompanies him if he moves around.
  • Dog appeasing pheromone
  • Ensure that your dog does not get extra attention when acting in a frightened manner. This can make the problem worse in that he may think that by acting frightened he will get more attention. You should continue with your normal routine, and only give him reward with attention after he has calmed down.
  • Provide toys or chews as a distraction.
  • Take your dog out early to toilet before the fireworks begin.
  • Close the curtains, and put on lights to reduce flashes from the fireworks.
  • It is possible to try to desensitize your pet to noises, by using various CD’s such as Sounds Scary, or soundtherapy4pets.co.uk , which start off by playing noises at low volume and gradually increasing the volume. This can take many weeks or months and is best started early in the year well before bonfire night.
  • Occasionally sedatives may be required for dogs that become extremely distressed, but an appointment with the vet would be needed to discuss this.

Pet of the Month – cat with broken leg

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Our Pet of the Month for October is an incredibly lucky little cat called Skitz. He was brought in to the vets as emergency after been attacked by an animal. On arrival there was evidence of an injury to the right fore limb as it was swollen. He was put on fluids for the shock of the attack.

Once he was more stable he was sedated to take x-rays of the injured leg. X-rays showed that there was a complete fracture of the right radius and fracture of the ulna. A survey x-ray was also taken to check there were no internal injuries. Skitz was also showing possible nerve damage to the back legs from a crushing injury but after a couple days he regained nerve function.

The vet decided that the best treatment for Skitz was to wait for the swelling to go down before they could operate on the broken leg. So after several days Mr Young repaired the fractures by placing pins inside the fractured pieces of bones to hold them together. The pins are held in place by an external fixator cement bar to ensure the bones will heal in the correct position. This type of fracture repair allows all his weight to go through the bar whilst the bones heal.

Skitz treatment was complicated further by the fact that he had an over-active thyroid , which can affect bone healing, so Skitz had his thyroid glands  surgically removed at the same time as his fracture repair.

 

Skitz needed a few days after surgery to recover in the hospital, when he was  encouraged at least once a day to go for a walk to use the leg.

10 Interesting cat facts !

The domestication of cats was based on mutual benefit. In the earliest days of agriculture, people were forced to deal with an unforeseen consequence: rodents devouring  crops and spoiling the grain. Following voraciously in their footsteps were predators like snakes and owls—and cats. The cats with the friendliest dispositions were eventually welcomed into human settlements, highly valued for their ability to destroy vermin. The house cat was domesticated from the African wildcat approximately 10,000 years ago in the Middle East and has rarely strayed from our side since.

10 Interesting Cat Facts !

  1. Sir Isaac Newton invented the cat flap
  2. It was once thought that the ancient Egyptians were the first to tame cats, but a pet cat has since been found in a 9,500 year old grave in Cyprus
  3. Cats have around 230 bones in their body, while humans only  have 203 bones
  4. According to the 2010 PAW Report there are 11.9 million pet cats living in the UK
  5. When cats run they can reach speeds of up to 30mph
  6. According to the Guinness World Records, the oldest cat lived to be 38 years and 3 days
  7. Chocolate is poisonous to cats
  8. A person that loves cats is called a ailurophile
  9. Julius Caesar was scared of cats, a condition known as ailurophobia
  10. Cats use their whiskers to judge if they can fit through a hole

Microchipping your cat

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Microchipping  your cat

reading a microchip

Microchipping is one of the most effective forms of pet identification, but too few cat owners have their pets microchipped. The 2011 PDSA Animal Wellbeing (PAW) Report has revealed that 54% of cats in the UK are not microchipped. That’s around 6.4 million cats without microchips.

If cats are microchipped, they are more likely to be reunited with their owners because microchipping is a permanent form of pet identification, unlike collars which can become lost. A cat’s microchip can be read in seconds by a handheld scanner at most veterinary practices or animal shelters.

Cats are naturally inquisitive creatures. Some inspect delivery vehicles and are inadvertently locked inside. There are stories of cats that have turned up hundreds of miles from home and are returned to their owners thanks to their microchips.

We offer cat microchipping at our surgeries in West London. The procedure is quick and often painless – your cat won’t even need to be anaesthetised. Using a syringe, the microchip will quickly be inserted under the skin between your cat’s shoulder blades. It takes no longer than giving a normal injection.

Some cats regularly lose their collars, so microchipping could be a cheaper option in the long run. A microchip will stay with your cat for its entire lifetime. Collars are also a potential hazard to cats as they can easily become snagged on things. Dextrous cats can even get their paws caught underneath a collar, which can lead to painful wounds.

If a cat is believed to be a stray and it is brought into our practice, we will immediately scan it to find out if it has a microchip. If the cat can’t be identified, then it could be rehomed, while its real owner is left forever wondering what happened to their beloved pet.

Call Young Veterinary Partnership today or drop into our practice to enquire about microchipping your cat.