Category Archives: puppies

puppy vaccinations.

Vaccinating Your Puppy.

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Vaccinating Your Puppy.

Vaccination is a vital step in protecting your puppy from several diseases which can prove to be fatal if the puppy is left unprotected. The prevalence of these diseases will vary from country to country and so the essential vaccines that your puppy will get will be different in the UK compared to other countries.

The key diseases that your puppy will be vaccinated against are Distemper, Hepatitis, Leptospirosis, Parainfluenza and Parvo virus. Puppies can have antibodies passed on to them from their mother in the early stages of life that will help to protect them initially but as these antibodies start to wane it is important that we support your puppy in developing their own protective antibodies so that they have a head start in fighting off these diseases if they are ever exposed to them. Vaccination not only protects the individual pet but also acts to help prevent the spread of the disease with the longer-term aim of eradicating the disease.

 

 

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Veterinary Surgeon and a Labrador puppy.

 

As your puppy’s immune system is relatively immature in early life, here at Young Vets we recommend giving two injections as part of the puppy vaccination schedule in order to stimulate the immune system to produce the level of antibodies that will provide protection. The vaccination course that your puppy gets is often referred to as the primary course which is then boostered at its annual health check.

 

The interval between the vaccinations will vary depending on the brand of vaccine, one of our friendly team will advise you on the interval rate (it is usually around 2 – 4 weeks apart). I am sure at this stage you are very keen to bring your puppy out but we would advise that you refrain for a given period before doing so. Our team will advise you on the duration, this vary depending on the vaccine used and the age at which your puppy received its second injection. The reason for this advice from our team is not to be a party pooper, but more to do with the gradual response by your puppy’s immune system to produce antibodies to the protective level.

 

 

puppy vaccinations.

Why are vaccinations so important?

 

So, what should you expect when you go to your vet for your puppy’s first vaccination?

 

Remember it can be overwhelming for a new owner as well as your puppy, so in preparation you could write out any questions you have in advance of the visit so that you ensure you leave with all the answers to your questions.

 

Although your visit to the vet is with the intention of getting your puppy vaccinated, it is important to be aware that this visit is primarily seen as a health check which will lead to administering of the vaccination. It is important that your puppy is healthy so that its immune system can respond optimally to the vaccination to produce the protective levels of antibodies. If your puppy is not in full health our veterinary team will address the ailment and advise that you come back at a later time to start the vaccination course.

 

To ensure your puppy is in full health or to check the health status of your pup, our vets will check many different things throughout the consult. They will often start with a physical examination to check your puppy, starting at its head and working back. In this process, your vet is checking for any conformational/genetic abnormalities e.g. cleft palate, heart murmurs or hernias. If you have a male puppy they will also check to determine if the testes have descended. They will also check the temperature to ensure that your puppy is not showing any early signs of illness.

 

puppy vaccination

Puppy Vaccinations

Following the physical exam, our team may discuss a preventative deworming/defleaing program to ensure your puppy is not affected by any parasites in the short and long term. Following the health check, if your puppy is in full health, then our vet will then give the first vaccination. The needle is small but some puppies may react with a little yelp. Rest assured that the long-term benefit of vaccination greatly outweighs the brief discomfort your puppy may demonstrate.

 

On returning home you may notice that your puppy is quieter than normal. This can be quite normal given the excitement of the visit plus the fact that the body is responding to the vaccine and is working hard to produce protective antibodies. This can also lead to the puppy getting a mild rise in temperature which may result in it going off its food for a short period. This does not occur in every incidence but is worth being aware of. However, if this occurs and persists for longer than 24 hours please contact our team for further advice.

 

After your primary vaccinations, your puppy will continue to require vaccinations throughout its adult life but we will remind you for these when your puppy is around a year old. Our reminders are completely free of charge just let our team know what suits you best – Text, email or letter.

 

If you have a new family member arriving soon, don’t hesitate to contact our friendly team about our Puppy Packs. These include everything you need to give your puppy the healthiest start to life.

 

This blog and images have been kindly supplied by petdialogue. 

Written by Edwina Gildea. 

 

 

Life saving surgery for Marley.

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Stomach saving surgery for a spaniel puppy.

Little Marley, a young liver and white Spaniel was bought into Young Veterinary Partnership, Hounslow after his concerned owners had noticed him vomiting continuously throughout the previous night. Marley had a thorough health check from Vet Dr Fulvia Conti, after discussions with his owner about what a scavenger he can be, like most puppies, Marley was admitted for further investigations.

Marley

Starting the investigations.

First a small blood sample was taken and tests were run at the surgeries in house laboratory to check for any infections or nasty bugs that puppies can pick up. These thankfully came back all completely normal so it was on to plan B. Under the watchful eye of the veterinary surgeon and nurse Marley was sedated and X-rays of his stomach were taken.

The X-rays showed Marley had clearly been having a feast – on stones! There were stones of all shapes and sizes scattered throughout the poor puppies digestive system. No wonder poor Marley had been so unwell the stones were causing him to be really uncomfortable and they were stopping any food from leaving his stomach – causing the vomiting.

Marley's X-rays

Sometimes a dog can pass an object on their own so it was decided to give Marley 24 hours to try and pass the stones himself. He was put onto fluids and the surgery staff watched and waited throughout the evening and early morning.

The waiting game is over.

Sadly no stones were passed so Marley was anaesthetised the very next day and taken into theatre, with his every breath being watched by experienced nurse Anne Marie Harrison. Due to the amount of stones Marley had eaten the surgery was very complex. The stones were scattered throughout different parts of Marley’s stomach, intestines and colon. The larger stones were removed and Marley was re X-rayed to ensure there were no more hiding out of view. The operation took around an hour and a half to complete and required a very delicate touch. Veterinary surgeon Fulvia Conti said “He is a very lucky dog that his loving owners reacted quickly and bought him straight to us, if left untreated the outcome could have been very different. It just goes to show that you really do need eyes in the back of your head when it comes to caring for puppies!”

Stones from Marley Marley on recovery

Marley was extremely brave and became a firm favourite with all the nurses and the team were all so pleased to see him make such a quick recovery following such major surgery.

It is now 7 days after his surgery and Marley is making such a speedy recovery that his stitches have been removed and he can go back to being his usual playful self, under the very watchful eye of his owners!

vet in surgery

Neutering your pet

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Neutering your pet – what you need to know.

The benefits of neutering can be applied to most species. 

Cats – most cats are neutered around 5 months of age.

Rabbits and Ferrets – can be neutered from 4 months of age.

Dogs – we normally advise puppies wait until they are at least 6 months old. Most small and medium sized female dogs are neutered around 6 months of age (before they have their first season). Most small and medium sized dogs are neutered between 6-9 months of age. Large and giant breed dogs such as Dobermanns , Rottweilers, Great Danes, may be better neutered at an older age of around 12-15months between first and second seasons for females or when fully grown for male dogs.

Neutering your female will stop her coming into season or heat, this can be messy time and last for up to 3 weeks. Other benefits of neutering include : preventing unwanted male attention, phantom and actual pregnancy. It can also dramatically reduce the risk of mammary cancer developing when they are older, and prevents ovarian cancer and pyometra’s (uterine infections) – which can be fatal.

Timing of neutering                                                       Mammary Tumour risk

Before first season

0.50%

After first season

8.00%

After second season

26.00%

After third season or over 2.5 years age

40.00%

Neutering your male can reduce: Urine spraying and marking, dominant behavior, humping, testicular cancer and in cats can reduce them straying too far from home, which results in a much lower risk of road traffic accidents. 

Neutering your pet

William and Poppy.

 

Owners have a responsibility to care for their animals needs, pregnant and nursing animals need extra food, care and attention. When the babies are old enough you will need to find homes for each and every one and ensure that they are wormed, flea treated and all puppies over 8 weeks old legally have to be micro-chipped. We also recommend vaccinations as soon as your animal is old enough to (8 – 9 weeks), to protect them against potentially fatal infections. 

Neutering pets, is something we perform on a regular basis here at Young Veterinary Partnership and we always recommend neutering your pet unless you plan to breed. It is a day surgery procedure (they are dropped off in the morning for the procedure and go home in the afternoon).

 

vet in surgery

 

  1. The morning of the surgery we ask that you do NOT give your kitten or puppy any breakfast (this rule does NOT apply to rabbits). An empty stomach reduces the risk of vomiting under anaesthetic.

  2. Firstly we will book you a ‘Pre Op’ appointment, the morning of the surgery your pet will have a full health check with one of our experienced vets.

  3. Your pet will then be transferred to our kennels area and given a pre anaesthetic injection by our nursing team, to keep your pet calm and stress free.

  4. The surgery will usually takes less than 1 hour.

  5. Once fully awake and recovered your pet will be able to go home the same day.

  6. We ask than once home your pet is given a ‘light’ meal as they may feel slightly nauseous – we recommend ‘recovery pack food’ this is specially formulated, easily digested tinned food for pets following surgery. Alternatively you can feed boiled chicken and rice. 

  7. 7 – 10 days following surgery we ask that your pet returns for his or her stitches to be removed (please note male cats do not have stitches so do not need to return).

Your pet may be quiet for a day or so but we should bounce back to normal, within a few days. Contact us today if you would like to book your pets neutering surgery. 

Did You Know the UK cat adoption centers are facing a crisis due to the current overpopulation of cats!

Did You Know an un neutered female cat can produce 18 kittens per year, which can end up with 20,000 descendants in just 5 years!

Did You Know female cats can get pregnant from 4 months of age!

Almost 50,000 pet dogs are being dumped in Britain every year!

Did You Know neutering your rabbit can reduce cancer and urinary tract infections.

We hope the above has helped you decide to neuter your pet, if you have any questions do not hesitate to ask any of our friendly team.

Is your pet due a trip to the vet?

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We want your pet to be as happy to see us as we are to see them!

  • One of the first things to help create this trust is to drop in, particularly when your pet is young. If you need a reason, our nurses and reception team love cuddles with your puppies and kittens and usually have a spare treat or two for them. We also offer free weight checks, this allows us to keep a record ensuring they’re growing up and gaining weight as they should be.

  • If you are nervous about the visit don’t be! Our staff are highly experienced and have seen and heard it all. If it concerns you then please ask us , no question is too silly. Remain calm and ‘normal’ as your pet will pick up on any anxiety you may be feeling. 

  • When visiting with cats we strongly recommend travelling your cat in a secure carrier not in your arms, even the calmest of cats can get stressed. If you have time, leave your carrier out a few days before your appointment, so your cat can climb in without being rushed. Try leaving a few treats and toys inside to tempt an investigation! Placing a towel over your carrier in the waiting room can help anxious cats  if you need one just ask us.

  • When travelling with dogs Invest in a doggie ‘seat belt’ or secure caged area of your car. If your dog suffers car sickness travel them on an empty stomach. Allow plenty of travel time so you are not rushed or late. Please keep your dog by your side in the waiting room. A vet practice can be a stressful place for pets and your laid back family dog could become stressed and snappy towards other.

  • Practice ‘vet checks’ at home. Your pet is never to young or old to do this training: Gently look inside your pets eyes and ears, teeth and mouth, practice lifting each paw in turn and nail clipping this is something that can be done at home. Read out our free guide on nail clipping> Cats and Dogs. Feel your pet all over from toe to tail. Spend 5 minutes a day practising the ‘all over’ handling and your pet will find an examination ‘normal’, when they come to us.

  • If you are coming in for a specific problem i.e. behaviour or tummy troubles write a diary of events and problems. Try to include what foods they’ve eaten, treats, where they have been park , swimming, times of day all of these things may be useful when finding a diagnosis.

  • Please ask our vets to write notes for you to take home if you are concerned you may not remember something that was mentioned or bring a friend or family member for help and support.

 

We do our very best to ensure that you are seen on time at you appointment time but emergencies and unpredictable cases can happen so please bear with us. Our reception team will endeavour to keep your updated if the consultations are running a few minutes late.

Puppy care- feeding, vaccinating, worming, and training

Cavalier King Charles puppies

 How to care for your puppy:

 

Make sure that you have suitable transport for your new puppy.  Puppies may be put in a collapsible cage in your car, which ensures they are safe during a journey. Be sure to have them on a lead/harness so that they can’t run away. Also before your puppy has its first vaccinations it is imperative that your puppy does not touch the floor outside (other than your garden) and is only introduced to dogs that are vaccinated.

 

  • Night Time:

     

    Your puppy may whine about being left alone for the first few nights. Soft toys can be good company. If you are planning to train them to use a crate you can cover the crate to make them feel more secure. Leaving a radio station on (eg. Classic FM) quietly in the background can also help them to feel more secure. Sometimes a ticking clock can provide some company. A covered hot water bottle may also be a very warm friend (care though- it should be hand hot only – any hotter can cause burns).

 

 

  • Training:

     

    Make sure to train and handle your puppy from an early age. Plenty of handling will make them comfortable with human contact. Reinforcing good play behaviours with treats is also recommended. When doing any training always give verbal praise first, and immediately after give a little treat. Eventually your puppy will be happy to receive the verbal praise alone. Get the puppy used to being checked over (like at the vets). Lift and handle the ears, try getting a dog toothpaste and brushing their teeth, with a finger brush. Lift and handle the paws. Be sure to expose your puppy to as many different people as possible whilst it is developing. This can include a person in uniform (eg. A postman), someone wearing a hat, someone with a beard even! Puppy classes are a great way to socialise them. Other puppies will help to teach your puppy how to behave in social situations.

 

 

For further tips on training your puppy see our other puppy and dog training blog post here

 

 

  • 1st Vaccinations: 

     

    This can be done on the first vet check between 8-10 weeks of age. The 2nd vaccination is 2-4 weeks after. Until a week after the 2nd vaccination it is imperative that you keep the puppy away from un-vaccinated dogs and do not place him/her on the floor in public spaces where viruses could be on the ground.

 

 

  • Worming and parasite control–

     

    Puppies will need to be wormed as most will have picked up worms from their mother. This can be done with either tablets, or with a spot on treatment, which will treat other parasites such as fleas and lungworm. Your vet will advise on the most appropriate treatment.

 

 

  • Exercise:

     

    Puppies do not need long walks – they only have little legs! Puppies aren’t considered fully grown until 6-18 months of age (larger breeds mature more slowly). It is then that a good exercise plan can be implemented. Larger breeds especially may be prone to bone and joint problems, and should not be over exercised, when growing.

 

 

  • Food:

     

    Little and often. A puppy’s tummy is very small and so their food intake needs to be split between 3-4 meal times. Find out what your puppy has been fed on at the breeder’s and try to maintain that regime for continuity. If your puppy has diarrhoea, give them boiled chicken and rice. Introduce any new puppy foods gradually over 3 days, as a sudden change in food will often cause a digestive upset.

 

 

  • Play: 

 

Puppies like to chew a lot especially during teething between the ages of 3 and 6 months, when they will lose all of their milk teeth.  Provide rubber Kongs or rope chews. Avoid bones as they can crack their milk teeth on these.  Play is an important way of learning for your new puppy and can be a lot of fun too!

 

 

Finally enjoy playing with your puppy – they grow up much  too fast, and send your cute pictures to our facebook page here !

 

Dog and Puppy care

How to care for your new puppy

Cavalier King Charles puppies

How to care for your puppy:

Make sure that you have suitable transport for your new puppy.  Puppies may be put in a collapsible cage in your car, which ensures they are safe during a journey. Be sure to have them on a lead/harness so that they can’t run away. Also before your puppy has its first vaccinations it is imperative that your puppy does not touch the floor outside (other than your garden) and is only introduced to dogs that are vaccinated.

  • Night Time: Your puppy may whine about being left alone for the first few nights. Soft toys can be good company. If you are planning to train them to use a crate you can cover the crate to make them feel more secure. Leaving a radio station on (eg. Classic FM) quietly in the background can also help them to feel more secure. Sometimes a ticking clock could provide some company. A covered hot water bottle may also be a very warm friend.

  • Training:Make sure to train and handle your puppy from an early age. Plenty of handling will make them comfortable with human contact. Reinforcing good play behaviours with treats is also recommended. When doing any training always give verbal praise first, and immediately after give a little treat. Eventually your puppy will be happy to receive the verbal praise alone. Get the puppy used to being checked over (like at the vets). Lift and handle the ears, try getting a dog toothpaste and brushing their teeth, with a finger brush. Lift and handle the paws. Be sure to expose your puppy to a number of things whilst it is developing. This can include a person in uniform (eg. A postman), someone wearing a hat, someone with a beard even! Puppy classes are a great way to socialise them. Other puppies will help to teach your puppy how to behave in social situations.

  • 1stVaccinations: This can be done on the first vet check between 8-10weeks of age. The 2ndvaccination is 2-4weeks after. Until a week after the 2ndvaccination it is imperative that you keep the puppy away from unvaccinated dogs and do not place him/her on the floor in public spaces where viruses could be on the ground.

  • Worming and parasite control– Puppies will need to be wormed as most will have picked up worms from their mother. This can be done with either tablets, or with a spot on treatment, which will treat other parasites such as fleas and lungworm.

  • Exercise: Puppies do not need long walks – they only have little legs! Puppies aren’t considered fully grown until 6-18 months of age (larger breeds mature more slowly). It is then that a good exercise plan can be implemented. Larger breeds especially may be prone to bone and joint problems, and should not be over exercised, when growing.

  • Food:Little and often. A puppy’s tummy is very small and so their food intake needs to be split between 3-4 meal times. Find out what your puppy has been fed on at the breeder’s and try to maintain that regime for continuity. If your puppy has diarrhoea, give them boiled chicken and rice. Introduce any new puppy foods gradually over 3 days, as a sudden change in food will often cause a digestive upset.

  • Play: Puppies like to chew a lot especially during teething between the ages of 3 and 6 months, when they will lose all of their milk teeth.  Provide rubber Kongs or rope chews. Avoid bones as they can crack their milk teeth on these.  Play is an important way of learning for your new puppy and can be a lot of fun too!

Finally enjoy playing with your puppy – they grow up much  too fast !

 

A case of Tetanus in a puppy

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Upright ears in a case of tetanus

Upright ears in a case of tetanus

tetanus

tetanus

A case of Tetanus: This is Barney Barnard a 6mth old Border Collie puppy. When Barney was 3mths old he came to us showing some very unusual signs. He was unable to eat properly, his ears were erect, lips pulled back and he walked with very stiff front legs. After some tests and research Barney was diagnosed with Tetanus and started on intensive treatment. We are all very pleased that after a long 3mths of treatment Barney appears to have made a full recovery. The pictures  show Barney with signs of Tetanus and as he is recovering.
Tetanus is an uncommon disease in dogs. Tetanus is caused by a bacteria called Clostridium Tetani, which is found in soil. Dogs can get Tetanus if the bacteria gets into wounds or from chewing sticks. This bacteria produces a toxin which causes paralysis. Cats can also get this disease but they are more resistant to it. The signs for Tetanus start appearing 5 – 18 days after the infection.
The main clinical signs we look for are:
*Stiff legs and a short, shuffley walk,
*Elevated tail,
*Contraction of the muscles in the face so it looks like the dog is smiling.

Luckily it is a very rare condition, so we hope we don’t see another case for a long time !

Tips on – How to choose a puppy

puppies-labrador-retriever west london vet

“Dogs are a man’s best friend”

Getting a puppy is a very important and exciting decision. A puppy can add so much joy and companionship to your life. We love seeing puppies here at Young Veterinary Partnership and enjoy, even more so, helping you to look after them as best as possible. When you decide to get a puppy you have to be sure that you can commit time towards exercising it, keeping it company and socialising/training it so it becomes a well-mannered adult dog.

Choosing your puppy:

The Breed: Choosing the appropriate breed for you is critical. A smaller dog breed may be more appropriate for your lifestyle. Seeing both parents of the puppy can help you assess possible future temperament (and future size). Some breeds may be more ‘highly strung” than others, some need more exercise, some need more coat care and grooming than others.  Although most puppies are healthy, certain breeds may have  an increased incidence of specific medical problems. This information is readily available these days on sites such as Wikipedia, specific breed websites and the kennel club. Taking out insurance at as soon as you get your puppy is a good idea.

The Breeder: Make sure your puppy comes from a reputable breeder where the mother is up to date with her vaccinations. The puppy should have also been wormed regularly throughout their first few weeks and may have had a flea treatment before being re-homed. Ideally the puppy should be around 8 weeks old before bringing them home. Keeping mother and puppies together upto 8 weeks, has been shown to reduce the risks of behavioural problems developing later. From April 2016 all puppies should be microchipped.

Charities: A great way of you re-homing a puppy. As a policy the puppy has usually had its first vaccinations and is microchipped for you. The charity may even have neutered them, if he/she is old enough. Charities often ask for a small donation towards adopting the puppy. Dogs Trust and Battersea dogs home may have suitable puppies or young dogs for rehoming.

Make sure that your puppy is fit and healthy when you choose it:

Hips/Elbows/Eyes: The parents of some pedigree litters have to undergo compulsory scoring of their hips (for hip dysplasia), elbows (for elbow dysplasia) or eyes (for cataracts and retinal problems). This reduces the risk of the puppies developing these problems (but doesn’t eliminate the risk), by only using parents with good scores for breeding. Make sure that the parents’ scores are of an acceptable standard for their breed. Visit www.thekennelclub.org.uk for more information.

Eyes: Bright wide eyes. No discharge.

Nose: Wet nose. No discharge.

Mouth & Teeth: No teeth out of place. Fully erupted. Milk teeth are usually bright white and look shiny.

Weight: A healthy weight where you can feel the ribs but not see them. Make sure the puppy doesn’t have a pot-belly as this could indicate a worm burden. This can be easily rectified by a wormer from a vet.

Appetite: A good appetite indicates a healthy puppy.

Toileting: Normal urination and defecation. This should be normally formed, no blood in it and not watery. Sometimes you can see evidence of worms in the faeces, if this is the case he will need worming by a vet.

 

 

 

Further information about different dog breeds can be found at www.dogstrust.org.uk

How to choose a puppy

puppies-labrador-retriever west london vet

“Dogs are a man’s best friend”

Getting a puppy is a very important and exciting decision. A puppy can add so much joy and companionship to your life. We love seeing puppies here at Young Veterinary Partnership and enjoy, even more so, helping you to look after them as best as possible. When you decide to get a puppy you have to be sure that you can commit time towards exercising it, keeping it company and socialising/training it so it becomes a well-mannered adult dog.

Choosing your puppy:

The Breed: Choosing the appropriate breed for you is critical. A smaller dog breed may be more appropriate for your lifestyle. Seeing both parents of the puppy can help you assess possible future temperament (and future size). Some breeds may be more ‘highly strung” than others, some need more exercise, some need more coat care and grooming than others.

The Breeder: Make sure your puppy comes from a reputable breeder where the mother is up to date with her vaccinations. The puppy should have also been wormed regularly throughout their first few weeks and even had a flea treatment before being re-homed. Ideally the puppy should be around 8 weeks old before bringing them home. Keeping mother and puppies together upto 8 weeks, has been shown to reduce the risks of behavioural problems developing later. Some breeders may even do a first vaccination and a microchip.

Charities: A great way of you re-homing a puppy. As a policy the puppy has usually had its first vaccinations and is microchipped for you. The charity may even have neutered them, if he/she is old enough. Charities often ask for a small donation towards adopting the puppy.

Make sure that your puppy is fit and healthy when you choose it:

Hips/Elbows/Eyes: The parents of some pedigree litters have to undergo compulsory scoring of their hips (for hip dysplasia), elbows (for elbow dysplasia) or eyes (for cataracts and retinal problems). This reduces the risk of the puppies developing these problems, by only using parents with good scores for breeding. Make sure that the parents’ scores are of an acceptable standard for their breed. Visit www.thekennelclub.org.uk for more information.

Eyes: Bright wide eyes. No discharge.

Nose: Wet nose. No discharge.

Mouth & Teeth: No teeth out of place. Fully erupted. Milk teeth are usually bright white and look shiny.

Weight: A healthy weight where you can feel the ribs but not see them. Make sure the puppy doesn’t have a pot-belly as this could indicate a worm burden. This can be easily rectified by a wormer from a vet.

Appetite: A good appetite indicates a healthy puppy.

Toileting: Normal urination and defecation. This should be normally formed, no blood in it and not watery. Sometimes you can see evidence of worms in the faeces, if this is the case he will need worming by a vet.

Further information about different dog breeds can be found at www.dogstrust.org.uk