Tag Archives: rabbit

Autumn Newsletter.

Blocked Bladders – Is It A Pet Emergency?

 

 

Blocked Bladders – Is It A Pet Emergency?

 

Blocked Bladders – Is It A Pet Emergency?

 

Cats can frequently suffer from cystitis, especially when they are stressed. Understand the signs of stress in your cat here. If your male cat is struggling to urinate or cannot go at all this is a Pet Emergency, do not delay, contact our experienced team for advice and treatment. Knowing when your pet needs to be seen as an emergency is an important decision for many owners. Generally, cats are good at keeping themselves out of trouble but occasionally serious problems do occur – Our blog below gives you a few things to watch out for. 

 

 

Blocked Bladder - Is It A Pet Emergency?

Chipping away!

 

Having your pets microchipped is absolutely vital! It’s not just cats and dogs that we recommend microchipping, rabbits, tortoises and ferrets can sneak away when your not watching! Our Autumn News explains the microchip procedure (don’t worry its really quick and simple!) and how microchips can link you and your pet together should the worst happen!

 

 

microchip-your-dog-by-law1

 

 

Arthritis – is your pet affected?

 

Anyone with arthritis knows that chills can get in your joints, and the same is true for our pets. Our Autumn News discusses the signs of arthritis to watch out for in your pet, although it cannot be cured, there is a wide range of treatment options available to help reduce the soreness and pain. If your older pet has slowed down recently, perhaps they are not going up and down the stairs quite as quick as they used too? A health check with one of our experienced team members will be beneficial for your golden oldie.

 

 

Pet Behaviours - How To Overcome Dog Separation Anxiety

 

 

We hope our Autumn News has explained some of the challenges that come with the cooler season. If you have any questions on the articles mentioned don’t hesitate to contact our friendly team for more help and advice.

 

F facebook

 

Twitter logo_white_blue

you tube large

Choosing a rabbit

 

Choosing a rabbit

 

While it is not possible to guarantee the health of an individual rabbit there are several things that you can do to maximise the chance that your new pet will have the best start in life. Where possible have the rabbit checked by one of our veterinary surgeons either before or immediately after purchase. Do not choose a sickly looking rabbit because you feel sorry for it, you will only be taking on problems.

 

 

Choosing a rabbit

 

Here is a list of things to check:

 

  •  The eyes and nose should be clear and free of any discharge (this could be a sign of an infection)

 

  •  If you are buying a dwarf or brachycephalic (flat faced) breed make sure you take extra care when checking eyes, nose and mouth.

 

  • If possible gently part the lips and examine the rabbit’s front (incisor) teeth to check they are not broken or overgrown.

 

  • The rabbit should be curious and inquisitive.

 

  •  The bunny should be in good body condition. Run your hands all over their body – bones should be felt but not seen and should be covered with a reasonable layer of muscle.

 

  •  Check the rabbits back end, it should be clean and clear. Signs of wetness or droppings stuck to fur could indicate a health issue.

 

  • Ask whether he / she has been vaccinated against myxomatosis and RHD – these diseases can and do take the lives of un vaccinated rabbits.

 

  •  If the bunny is over 4 months old, ask if it has been neutered. This can help prevent urinary problems and cancer developing later in life. Here at Young Vets we recommend neutering your bunny, please discuss this with our team when you visit with your new pet.

 

  • Finally, find out what the rabbit is being fed on, as you do not want to introduce a sudden change of diet when you get it home – this may provoke gut disturbance and diarrhoea when you bring your new pet home.

 

myxomatosis

Sale VS Adoption

Pet shops may have rabbits for sale. It is important to ensure that they have been kept in single sex groups and that the staff can give you information on the source, age, sex and care of the rabbits. While the internet can provide a convenient way of researching breeds, we would advise against purchasing rabbits without visiting to see them in their home environment first. Ideally, you want to inspect the mother and littermates. While the offer to deliver your rabbit to you may seem appealing, remember that this could be hiding irresponsible breeding and care practices. REMEMBER – Pets are not pizza – never take Home Delivery of a pet!

 

The benefits of rehoming; When you visit an adoption centre all animals receive a full assessment including health and behaviour. Vaccinations, microchips and neutering will already of been performed (according to age). The rescue centres will also offer you a life time of support and advice as your pet grows. The centres are full to capacity with unwanted and abandoned animals all looking for new homes, why not consider adopting instead of shopping?

 

 

Socialisation

After bringing your rabbit home it is useful to introduce them slowly to various sights, sounds, people and experiences around the house and garden. Once they have become accustomed to their surroundings, it is advisable to handle them regularly. When handling your new pet, always support its chest and hindquarters as this will prevent spinal injuries. Hold the front end of your rabbit under its chest between the front legs with one hand, scoop up the hind end with your other hand. Always hold your rabbit close in to your body so it feels secure and support its hindquarters to prevent spinal injuries. You can tuck its head under your arm or if it appears stressed as this will help keep it calm.

 

Never pick a rabbit up by its ears or let its legs dangle freely.

 

Often it is best to get down to the rabbit’s level and stroke it, letting it come to you; or gently place it on your lap while you are sitting on the floor, rather than picking it up and lifting it off the ground. Do not lie a rabbit on its back, even if it lies still and appears to be ‘hypnotised’. This is in fact a stress response and is not pleasurable to the rabbit, although it may be useful in some specific situations for non-painful grooming or veterinary procedures such as nail clipping. Remember that rabbits are naturally prey animals and as such can have a nervous temperament, training them will take time and patience.

 

 

 

Companionship

Rabbits are very sociable and should not be kept on their own. They need other rabbits for companionship. They may be kept in single sex groups, or pairs (a male and a female). Which ever option you choose, please consider neutering your pets, intact males are more prone to developing behavioural problems including biting, fighting and urine spraying. Rabbits should not be kept with guinea pigs because rabbits can bully and injure guinea pigs, and they both need company from their own species.

 

 

Vaccinating your bunny

Rabbits should be vaccinated routinely against rabbit haemorrhagic disease (RHD) and myxomatosis. Both these viral diseases can be rapidly fatal in an unvaccinated rabbit, and there is no specific cure for either disease once established. The only protection you can give your rabbits is through vaccination. RHD is spread by direct contact between rabbits (both wild and domesticated) but also via indirect contact with people, clothing, shoes, other objects and fleas. Myxomatosis is commonly spread by fleas and other biting insects, and can often be transmitted in this way from wild rabbits to pets. A combined myxomatosis-RHD vaccination can be given from as early as five weeks of age. Boosters are given every 12 months and cover both diseases. Join our Pet Healthcare Club and spread the cost of your rabbits vaccinations, health checks and flea and worming prevention across affordable monthly payments. Our team will provide you with further advice on vaccination, as well as flea and other parasite control. The best way to avoid many disease problems in your pet rabbits is to have regular veterinary health checks at least annually, which can coincide with vaccinations. Your rabbits will be given a full examination and the teeth can be checked (particularly the back teeth) for any evidence of dental disease.

 

pet savers logo

 

If you are thinking about buying a rabbit, or perhaps you’ve just bought one into your home, contact our friendly team we have four surgeries accross the West London area, with a range of opening hours to suit you and your new pet. We look forward to meeting you both soon.

 

This blog has been produced by PetSavers. Petsavers is dedicated to improving the health of the nation’s pets. We do this by funding clinical research projects and Master’s degrees by research. Clinical research projects give us a better understanding of pets’ illnesses. This leads to improved diagnosis and treatment so that pets can have longer and healthier lives. A Master’s degree by research develops the skills of vets so they can apply the results of the research and their expertise to pets as soon as possible. No experimental animals are used in PetSavers studies. In the last 40 years PetSavers has given over £2 million towards these goals. PetSavers rely on the support of vets, nurses and pet owners.

www.petsavers.org.uk

 

Grass awns – a summer problem to watch out for.

Grass awns – a summer problem to watch out for.

A summer problem – the grass awns of the meadow grasses are easily trapped in the coats of pets, especially dogs. Understand more about the damage these can cause in your pet. Also included in our Summer News – Stick to dog toys! Most vets and nurses have seen stick injuries to dogs, understand the safety of using a dog toy rather than a stick.

 

 

Stick to dog toys!

Stick to dog toys!

Dental disease is painful – Could your pet be suffering?

Dental disease is painful, causes tooth loss, and infections can spread throughout the body – potentially causing significant organ damage. Our Summer News explains the signs to watch out for in your pets. The good news is that if gum problems are identified at an early stage, a combination of a scale and polish and ongoing home care can make a real difference to your pet’s oral health.

 

Gum problems can be treated if they are identified at an early stage,

Gum problems can be treated if they are identified at an early stage.

 

Keeping cool!

It is vital to ensure your pet keeps cool in hot weather. From sunburn and heatstroke, to flystrike our Summer News offers some top advice on how to keep your pet cool this Summer 2019!

 

It is vital to ensure your pet keeps cool in hot weather.

It is vital to ensure your pet keeps cool in hot weather.

 

We hope you enjoying reading our Summer Newsletter. If you need any further advice don’t hesitate to contact our knowledgeable team for further advice.

 

Have you given us a ‘like’ yet – if not, visit our Facebook page here. You can also Tweet at us and subscribe to our You Tube channel for lots of pet care videos.

 

Alabama Rot – an emerging disease

 

   We are excited to announce that our Autumn newsletter has arrived! Its crammed with advice to help keep your pet healthy this Autumn 2018.

 

Alabama Rot – an emerging disease

Most dog owners have now heard about the new disease Alabama Rot. Although it is very serious it is also still quite rare but if you own a dog read on, understanding the signs and early treatment could save your pets life.

 

Conkers, Acorns and rotting fruit 

are a real concern at this time of year. All of these can cause real digestive upset. Our Autumn News, is a 10 minute read for and will explain the Autumn Alerts – to be aware of at this time of year to help you keep your pet safe.

 

conkers_edit

 

Firework Alert! 

With Fireworks night fast approaching – preparing your pet well in advance for the main event is key.  We’ve listed some of our top tips here to help your pets cope with the fireworks this Autumn season.

 

Help your pet cope with the fireworks season.

Help your pet cope with the fireworks season.

If you have any questions on the articles mentioned in our newsletter or if you have concerns about your pet, don’t delay contact our friendly team today for more advice today.

Rabbit care

Getting a Rabbit- what do I need to know ?

rabbit vaccination

 

 

Getting a Rabbit:

  • Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular as pets for both children and adults in the UK. They are very sociable animals and should be kept in pairs if possible. Animals from the same litter will normally get on well, but any pair that are newly introduced must be monitored closely. Female rabbits will tolerate each other, but un-castrated male rabbits will fight. It is not recommended to keep rabbits and guinea pigs together, as both have very different requirements.
  • The average rabbit will live for 5 – 10 years, so they are a big commitment.

Feeding:

  • The most important part of a rabbit’s diet is hay, alongside fresh grass. Rabbits should be allowed to eat as much hay and grass as they like. Rabbit teeth grow continuously throughout their life, and so hay is vitally important to keep them worn down. Rabbits that are not fed enough hay will often encounter problems with overgrown teeth later in life, which can be very difficult to resolve.
  • Rabbits can also be fed green leafy foods and vegetables, such as cabbage, chard, parsley, watercress, broccoli, basil, carrot, brambles, and dandelions. All of these foods should be washed before being fed to your rabbit. Fruits should be avoided as they are very sugary.
  • Rabbits can also be fed a pre-packaged rabbit food in the form of pellets or muesli. This is the least important part of the diet, and only a small handful should be given daily. Pelleted rabbit foods are better than mueslies, as the rabbit cannot pick and choose what to eat out of the bowl!
  • Always ensure fresh water is available.

Neutering:

  • Rabbits can be neutered from 4 months of age. In female rabbits, this prevents uterine tumours and can greatly reduce the chances of mammary tumours developing. It also stops any unwanted pregnancies. In male rabbits, castration prevents aggressive behaviour and inappropriate mounting of objects.

Vaccinations:

  • Rabbits should be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). Even rabbits who live indoors should be vaccinated, as the viruses can be spread via contact with flies, and biting insects. Rabbits can be vaccinated from 5 weeks of age. Vaccinations should be repeated annually to ensure protection is maintained.

Flystrike:

  • Rabbits will naturally eat some of their faeces (called caecotrophs) daily. These are the soft pellets that are normally passed at night so you may not see them. However, if a rabbit suffers from certain conditions such as obesity, arthritis, etc, it will be unable to reach around to it’s rear end to collect them. This can lead to a build up of sticky faeces, which will attract flies. If the flies lay eggs onto the rabbit’s coat, the developing maggots will eat away at the rabbit’s skin. This is an extremely painful condition called flystrike and needs prompt treatment from your vet. It is therefore important to check a rabbit’s rear end everyday for faeces and to bathe away anything that becomes stuck.
  • We recommend protecting rabbits from flystrike by using an insecticide twice yearly, which can be picked up from the surgery in May and July.

 

Rabbit- feeding, vaccinating ,neutering and avoiding flystrike

 

 

Getting a Rabbit:

 

          • Rabbits are becoming increasingly popular as pets for both children and adults in the UK. They are very sociable animals and should be kept in pairs if possible. Animals from the same litter will normally get on well, but any pair that are newly introduced must be monitored closely. Female rabbits will tolerate each other, but un-castrated male rabbits will fight. It is not recommended to keep rabbits and guinea pigs together, as both have very different requirements.
          • The average rabbit will live for 5 – 10 years, so they are a big commitment.

 

 

Feeding:

 

          • The most important part of a rabbit’s diet is hay, alongside fresh grass. Rabbits should be allowed to eat as much hay and grass as they like. Rabbit teeth grow continuously throughout their life, and so hay is vitally important to keep them worn down. Rabbits that are not fed enough hay will often encounter problems with overgrown teeth later in life, which can be very difficult to resolve.

 

          • Rabbits can also be fed green leafy foods and vegetables, such as cabbage, chard, parsley, watercress, broccoli, basil, carrot, brambles, and dandelions. All of these foods should be washed before being fed to your rabbit. Fruits should be avoided as they are very sugary.

 

          • Rabbits can also be fed a pre-packaged rabbit food in the form of pellets or muesli. This is the least important part of the diet, and only a small handful should be given daily. Pelleted rabbit foods are better than mueslies, as the rabbit cannot pick and choose what to eat out of the bowl!
          • Always ensure fresh water is available.

 

Neutering:

 

        • Rabbits can be neutered from 4 months of age. In female rabbits, this prevents uterine tumours and can greatly reduce the chances of mammary tumours developing. It also stops any unwanted pregnancies. In male rabbits, castration prevents aggressive behaviour and inappropriate mounting of objects.

 

Vaccinations:

 

          • Rabbits should be vaccinated against myxomatosis and viral haemorrhagic disease (VHD). Even rabbits who live indoors should be vaccinated, as the viruses can be spread via contact with flies, and biting insects. Rabbits can be vaccinated from 5 weeks of age. Vaccinations should be repeated annually to ensure protection is maintained.

 

Flystrike:

 

  • Rabbits will naturally eat some of their faeces (called caecotrophs) daily. These are the soft pellets that are normally passed at night so you may not see them. However, if a rabbit suffers from certain conditions such as obesity, arthritis, etc, it will be unable to reach around to it’s rear end to collect them. This can lead to a build up of sticky faeces, which will attract flies. If the flies lay eggs onto the rabbit’s coat, the developing maggots will eat away at the rabbit’s skin. This is an extremely painful condition called flystrike and needs prompt treatment from your vet. It is therefore important to check a rabbit’s rear end everyday for faeces and to bathe away anything that becomes stuck.

 

 

 

      • We recommend protecting rabbits from flystrike by using an insecticide twice yearly, which can be picked up from the surgery in May and July.